
King George Sound
It is a beautiful thing to walk a sandy path where before you there are no footprints. The world opens up before you; you are an intrepid explorer bound by nothing bar the sky and the land. This was my experience walking the track to the delightfully named Bald Head, in Albany’s Torndirrup National Park.
Setting out before the sun had struggled above the horizon, the deep threatening blue of the Southern Ocean roared to my right, while the smooth quiet waters of King George Sound lay still to my left. The wind, chilled by Antarctica itself, hammered any bare skin, quickly revealing any gaps in my many layers of clothes. Climbing the first ridge, seen in the right of the picture, was like climbing onto the roof of Albany itself. High above sea level the various bays spread out before me, in a multitude of shades of blue, navy and sapphire, while seemingly ever present rainbows pierced the constant grey.
Squinting into the wind I saw large bright birds braving the untamed seas, soon realising they are squadrons of gannets launching aerial assaults on unsuspecting fish, plunging headlong into the icy waters. A little further up the ridge a Peregrine Falcon plummets past with murderous intent, as only Peregrines can. This must be Peregrine heaven. Higher up still and the environment changes, sheltered from the oceanic gale many plants thrive and smaller birds thrive. It is here that I am graced by the company of a delightful bird. It is the intricate, delicate, delightful Southern Emu-wren. It is not a product of genetic engineering, combining Australia’s largest bird with one of its smallest, but a wonderful little wren whose six long tail feathers look remarkably like emu feathers. Alas, I had the wrong lens on so there are no pictures.
I could wax lyrical about the beauty of this area, however time is running out. I will tell you that further along the track I also saw a White-bellied Sea-Eagle and a Collared Sparrowhawk, but unfortunately did not see any whales. I think it is slightly too early in the season. I did also manage to completely exhaust myself as it was a 16km hike, and due to a sore muscle I was struggling to walk that evening!
I should add that the reason I did this hike was because the boat trip to see the seabirds was postponed because of the weather, however I will not be able to go on the postponed trip. So although it was very disappointing, I stayed positive and enjoyed an incredible time hiking. Hope you are all well and enjoying this great winter weather, I sure am!
Til next time,
Love Wes
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Tags: Albany, Bald Head, King George Sound, Southern Ocean, Torndirrup National Park